From Rio to Bahia

It´s impossible not to get to excited about Rio. Even for me. Even in the dark and in the rain in a car I couldn´t help being like - IS THAT A MOUNTAIN RISING OUT OF THE SEA IS THAT WHAT THOSE LIGHTS ARE YEAHHH RIO. The city is actually pretty small, but nice, and stunning, clearly. I hear that Rio has the beauty but São Paulo, now São Paulo is the city. Which is probably true. Sampa has the culture and the ethnic neighborhoods and the crazy complexities, and Rio is, as they say, basically a beach town. Of course there are the favelas, but they might as well be in another country- so so isolated and invisible. Which is a whole different story, for another day perhaps. I got to enjoy the whole fame-appeal of Ipanema and Copacabana (named after the beach in Bolivia due to a series of shipwrecks, survivors, and saints), plus walk around the lovely neighborhoods of Urca, Lapa, Santa Theresa, and the center, where there were a number of super interesting tiny museums and cultural centers to be visited. Also two glorious garden-parks set against the jungley hills and filled with treats like carnivorous plants and GIANT lilly pads! Oh, and Paris Hilton does beer commercials here.

Of course the best part about being in Rio is that I was finally with Paula!!! She picked me up at night at the bus station and brought me home, where they were in the midst of holding a giant housewarming party for the place. Brazilians are overwhelmingly friendly, and way more curious than most Latin American´s I´ve met. I field all kind of quesions on behalf of the US all the time. Hope that´s ok with folks. I have also been asked by three different young Brazilians whether, in the US elementary schools, we are taught that the Amazon is an international and/or US territory. Quite the urban legend, no?? Or have any of you actually been told that?Anyhow, everyone here is lovely and they have taken me in and around and I have received a(n alphabetised hand written) list miles longs of movies and books and CDs that I am told are necesary to really appreciate Brasil. One of the ladies here has her own radio station- streaming here. We also went to a Samba club (Samba is deceptively impossible to learn) and a punk rock karaoke bar, so I guess I have Rio´s music scene covered?

Salvador, Bahia, is finally getting into the North of Brasil. When I come back I´ll have the whole North East (and the interior) to explore. The region is famous for being poor, African, hot, and beautiful, with some of Brasil´s best music and beaches. Unfortunately I don' t think Salvador, where I'm staying, is the best place to enjoy it. It doesn't help that I'm sick and sleepy and staying in a hostel that reminds me of some kind of frat-gym, and oh, it's raining. On the plus side, I'm in Barra, right by the ocean, and taking a week of Portuguese classes which come with free Capoeira classes (so awesome! If you would like to see some American made Capoeira-taken-to-the-inner-city-to-save-youngsters-from-gang-violence, check out the film Only the Strong, which I was lucky enough to see on one of my many bus rides in Bolivia). Salvador would be beautiful if the historical center weren't so so touristy that it had ceased to resemble any kind of actual city. These days it's mostly good for finding any object imaginable plastered with the Brazilian flag. I was seriously tempted by some short shorts, I must say.

Also it's national museum week here, which is cool. Brazil is super into popular works and street theater which caters to and involves the general population, with a special focus on the favelas and homeless folks, integration and "social harmony". Pretty cool. Also once the weather cleared the beach was pretty translucent and nice. And the African-Christian church ceremonies and the drumming and the samba. Also nice.

If I weren't so sick I would go into the traditional culture up here, the history, the Candomble religion, etc etc, but I'll give yall a break this time.

Headed to Peru on Sunday to work for a health program run by the University of Washington for a month or so. More on that soon.

xo